The bridge bumper is a tool that should be used with extreme care, and by people who know what they are doing, so get guidance if you feel that you need it. If you use a bridge bumper without proper care, you can mar the finish on the sound board, or break the bridge of your instrument completely. This is a stick with some padding on it that can be used to move the treble bridge into its proper position or alignment for tuning. The bridge bumper should only be used against the bottom of the bridge. Finally, the leather pad is used to protect the sound board's finish should you happen to be using a bridge bumper for tuning purposes.

The next question to ask yourself is about how often you need to actually tune your hammered dulcimer instrument. The solution to this is actually relatively simple: You should tune only when you actually need to tune. Most hammered dulcimers will naturally stabilize over time, allowing them to be less frequently tuned. Newer hammered dulcimers on the other hand typically need to be often tuned at least in the first few months before their assemblages can normalize. If you are playing a new instrument, then you should expect to sit down and tune it on a fairly regular basis.

Hammered dulcimers are going to need to be retuned in situations where significant humidity changes are in place, because high humidity can cause the wood to absorb moisture, and this will expand the wood. Expansion of the wood will cause the instrument to play more sharply than it is meant to. On the other hand, low humidity will cause the wood to lose moisture, which will shrink the wood and cause the instrument to go flat over time. If you change to heating from air conditioning or from air conditioning to heating, you should plan on retuning your instrument. If you control the humidity in your home more effectively, you will not need to tune your hammered dulcimer as often.

There is some debate regarding whether you should begin at the bottom or the top when tuning your hammered dulcimer. It really does not make much difference though, so the best advice that you can take is simply to begin where you want to. Do what is comfortable for you, tune to the right level for your play, and you should be just fine.

Photo Credits: 1

Originally posted 2009-02-26 05:04:55. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Instrument Care:

Make sure that you tighten up your bow before you play. The way that you can achieve this is by turning your instrument's tension screw. You are going to want to avoid allowing the hairs of the bow to become too taut, as the separation between the hair and the bow stick should only always be approximately the width of a pencil.

You should be placing a small amount of rosin on the bow before you play. You can hold the rosin in the left hand and place the hairs of the bow flat against the rosin before slowly running the bow forward and back along the rosin for an even application.

• After you play the violin, you are going to want to clean it gently using a soft cloth so that you can remove the rosin build up that the strings have accumulated.

Polish is rarely ever going to be needed. When it is necessary, however, you are only ever going to want to use a commercial grade violin specific polish. Cleaning your violin using water or a furniture polish product could easily damage not only the visual quality of the violin by harming its varnish, but also the tonal quality as well by damaging the acoustics. Using water on a violin may also cause the seams of the violin to open up.

• Loosen up the hairs on the bow before you put the bow back in your violin case.
• Never store your violin in any place where there is extreme hot, extreme cold or drastic changes in temperature.

If you happen to live in a climate that is particularly dry, then it may be wise to purchase a humidifier that is specifically intended for violins. An excessive level of dryness can actually cause the seams of the violin to crack, allowing the seams to open up.

Humidity and temperature fluctuations can cause stickiness or turning problems in the wood pegs of the violin. If this is experienced, then you may want to buy peg compound, an inexpensive product that will lubricate these pegs while still providing enough friction that they will not slip or turn unnecessarily. When you use this peg compound or peg dope product, make sure that you are using it in a sparing manner because it can build up an unnecessary level of residue over a period of time. For this reason, some violinists avoid using this and other products that can cause unnecessarily build up or residue.

Applying peg compound involves removing a string from the peg, sliding the peg away from the peg box. A small amount of the peg compound should be applied to the peg where it makes contact with the peg box before reinserting the peg again. Any excess compound should be wiped off before you allow the peg to be restrung.

Photo Credits: phos365

Originally posted 2009-11-23 03:23:27. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Next what you are going to want to do is to take the new string out of the package and uncoil it. You should note that on one side of the string there is a small ball. You should slide this ball end of your new guitar string down into the bridge hole for a couple of inches. Now you should place the bridge pin back into its original hole, making sure that the pin's carved slot is properly aligned with the inserted string.

As you are replacing the bridge pin you should be lightly pulling on the string, ensuring that you do not crimp it in the process. You should do this until you feel that the ball has slipped into its proper place. Should the bridge pin pop out during this process, simply repeat the process again. It could possibly take some practice for you to achieve this but you should get a feel for it in a while.

Now you are going to want to pull the string very gently in the direction of the guitar's headstock, applying only enough pressure that there is no visible slack in the string during this process. You should pull the string approximately one generous inch past the appropriate tuning peg, and then crimp the string in a 90 degree angle using your fingers so that the string is now pointing into the direction of that tuning peg.

Without feeding that string through the tuning peg, you are going to want to turn your tuner until the tuning peg's hole is going to allow for the crimped string end to slide through it. Now slide the string into the tuning peg until you hit the point where you crimped the string. You may need to crimp that string again to make sure that it is kept in place while you are working on tightening it.

Now you should begin to actually tighten the string. You should be slowly bringing it into tune. If you have a string winder on hand, now is the time to break it out and put it to good use. If you do not already have a string winder, now may be a good time to consider buying one as they can be extremely helpful. Begin to slowly as well as evenly turn the tuning peg counter-clockwise to tune the guitar. Tightening the guitar string is what allows it to be brought into tune slowly.

Photo Credits: jenny downing

Originally posted 2009-10-16 03:00:17. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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The most common method that you can use in order to tune your acoustic guitar is the following:

Step 1 - Begin with the E string.

You are going to want to begin by tuning the bottom E string as accurately as you possibly can. The chances are, this string is probably already in tune since it is the thickest of all the strings. Because it is so thick, it is the least likely out of all of the strings to become detuned in comparison to the other strings on the guitar. If you have some other type of musical instrument, such as a piano for example, then you can tune this string to the first E below the middle C on the piano. If you do not have a device or an instrument handy, then you are just going to want to try to get it as accurate as you possibly can. What really is going to count is to make sure that the guitar is completely in tune with its own self, and any other musical instruments that you are going to be accompanying.

Step 2 - Move to the A string.

Now you are going to want to place your left hand's first finger just behind the bottom E string's fifth fret. This is the A note. Now keep your finger planted on this fret. Now pick both the fifth and the sixth strings in turn and gently adjust the tuning peg on the fifth string until both of the notes are playing the same.

Step 3 - Move to the D string.

Now place the first finger from your left hand to the A string's fifth fret. This is a D note. Now tune the fourth string, which is the D note, to that note.

Step 4 - Move to the G string.

Now place the first finger from the left hand to just behind the D string's fifth fret. This is known as a G note. Now tune the G string to this note.

Step 5 - Move to the B string.

Now place your left hand's first finger just behind the A string's fourth fret. This is a B note. Tune the B string to this note.

Photo Credits: defrog

Originally posted 2009-10-14 03:53:10. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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1 - First you should clean your mouthpiece.

This is done by first removing the reed and the ligature, and then using a mouthpiece brush to remove any foreign material that you find inside the mouthpiece of your instrument. You should put your mouthpiece in a sink and run lukewarm water through it, then use a lint-free cloth to dry the mouthpiece and remove any excess particles with a few passes of the cloth through the mouthpiece.

2 - Next you are going to want to swab the neck using a brush attachment, which appears as a flexible metal hose with a ball of rags on one end.

Pass this through the larger opening on the neck so that it comes out the narrow side where the cork is attached. Brush the inside out to remove foreign particles or bacteria, then use the swab last. You can also run water through the neck but only if you keep water away from the cork, as this will cause it to become deformed.

3 - Next you are going to want to swab the body using a standard cleaning kit.

There is an attachment that looks like a brush with a cloth on a long string and a weight on the other end. You put the weighted end into the saxophone's bell and turn the saxophone upside down to let the weighted end go completely through the body. You then pull the swab through to clean everything out. If you see a slight green color, do not fret, because it is just a sign of corrosion on the inside of your instrument from rust.

4 - Now check the valve pads and clean them as necessary.

There are a number of them on your saxophone, so this will be a time consuming step for you. Each pad should be visually inspected and searched for tears and wear. If you find a broken pad, replace it. Remove foreign material from the pads as gently as you possibly can.

5 - Tighten any loose screws that you find. Most saxophone screws are the flat head variety.

Make sure not to over torque them if you want to keep your saxophone in good condition.

6 - Finally you should swab the corks and grease them as necessary.

Dry the corks completely and add only a small amount of cork grease as necessary. The cork should be conditioned with the grease on a weekly basis in order to maintain a truly impressive seal.

Photo Credits: 1

Originally posted 2009-03-12 05:37:56. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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What you are going to need

For this process you are going to need wire snips, pliers, a cloth that you can use to wipe down your guitar, a bottle of guitar polish and a string winder. The string winder is optional, but we highly recommend it.

You should begin by locating a flat surface that you can lay the guitar down on. A table is going to work well but you may also use the floor if you are in a pinch. Position yourself before the instrument so that the sixth string of the guitar is the one that is closest to you. Slacken the lowest string, the sixth string, as much as you possibly can using the tuner. If you are unsure of what direction you need to turn the tuner in so that you can slacken the string, try plucking it before you begin to turn that tuner. The pitch of this note that you played should be getting lower as the string is slackened.

Once it has been slackened, you should uncoil the string from the guitar's tuning peg, which his located at the guitar's head. Next, you are going to want to remove the string's other end, the one located near the bridge, and this can be done by removing the bridge pin for this string from the guitar's bridge. Most bridge pins are going to provide a certain amount of resistance when it comes to attempting to remove them. Should this happen to be the case, you can use a set of pliers to gently coax the pin out of the guitar's bridge.

Now you are going to want to discard the removed string. With the cloth that you supplied, gently wipe down any guitar areas that cannot be reached when the string is on the instrument. If you happen to have guitar polish then now would be a good time for you to use it.

It is vitally important that you note that many guitar players will remove all of the strings from their guitar at one time, replacing them all at once. This is actually highly advised against. The six strings when tuned properly on a guitar are producing a great level of tension on the instrument's neck, and this is actually a good thing. When you remove all of the strings at the same time, the tension is drastically changed and many guitar necks are not capable of reacting well to this. Sometimes when you replace all six strings at once, they sit impossibly high away from the fret board. To avoid this issue you need to change the strings of your guitar one at a time.

Photo Credits: Brian Lane Winfield Moore

Originally posted 2009-10-15 03:57:52. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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* Because brass instruments can vary significantly, it is important that you take the time to learn the specific cleaning methods for the instrument that you own. For example, rotor tubas, rotor trombones and French horns should always be cleaned by an experienced professional rather than by hand.

Once a week you should lubricate the valves on your brass instrument. You should simply have to unscrew the valve cap, drawing the valve out halfway. Using the appropriate lubricant, you should apply a drop of the valve oil to the widest portion of the valve before pressing it back into its original location. The valves on most brass instruments have a specific guide that makes it possible to line the valve up. More often than not, you will hear a click to indicate that you have aligned the valve properly.

If you play a brass instrument, then you are probably already aware of what happens after a good blowing session. Moisture can easily become built up within your instrument. If you do not take the time to remove this moisture, it can do a real number on your instrument's health. In order to be sure that you have adequately removed all of the moisture from your instrument, you are going to want to do a final blow with the water keys left open, which should help to make sure that the inside of your instrument is kept both happy and dry.

In order to keep your brass nice and shiny, you need to wipe the outside of your instrument down following each use. This will help to remove fingerprints, oils and perspiration that is left on the brass by your hand. You also want to spare your brass fro bruises, storing your instrument in its case whenever you are not using it. Remember that your instrument case is designed for your instrument, so don't store other things in your instrument case like cleaning supplies or books, or your instrument may sustain injuries.

Keep in mind that once a month you need to do a much better and more thorough cleaning job if you want to keep your instrument in good shape. Consider consulting a professional for the monthly deep cleaning to keep your instrument in good shape.

Photo Credits: 1

Originally posted 2009-01-23 05:12:11. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Steps:

1. Loosen each of the four strings a little at a time. Then remove each of the strings from its hole in your doweling which is in the scroll.
2. Make sure to get the bridge that was supporting the strings and place it in your violin case for now.
3. Cut the strings off of the tail piece near the keyholes. If need be, mark the holes so that you can remember which string goes where.
4. At the base side of each of the strings, tie a small knot to be fit below the slot for the string, which will form an anchor point once tension is added.
5. Thread the new strings clean end through the slot underside in the tailpiece. Make sure each string is set securely, and does not slip when the tension is increased.
6. Now thread the opposite side of each of the violin strings through the proper holes in the doweling rod to the point where any additional turns are going to lie on top of the string's end, preventing the string from slipping as a result. Take care not to apply any tension just yet.
7. Now you are going to want to set the strings on the top of the bridge's indentations so that the bridge foot is situated over the tone post.
8. Now what you are going to want to do is to gradually tighten your strings, tightening all of them in rotation with just a little bit at a time.
9. Take a pitch pipe for four notes or use a piano and begin to do the pitch matching as well as the tuning process at this point.
10. Now you are going to want to be aware of the fact that the tuning is going to flatten gradually as a result of the normal stretching of your new strings. The stretching should be almost completely done by the end of a week.

Tips:

• Make sure that you check out the condition of the violin's bridge. If it is damaged or has become cracked then you should replace it immediately with a brand new one.
• You are going to want to avoid totally mounting or removing all of the strings at a time because tension issues can easily cause the instrument to become warped unnecessarily and repairs can be quite costly if the instrument can be repaired at all. Remove and replace the strings one at a time instead to get the best possible results.

Photo Credits: dubstyle

Originally posted 2009-11-16 03:18:10. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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These common mistakes result in guitar strings that will go out of tune much more readily, and it will damper the sustain qualities that we desire in a guitar string. Over tensioning the string can also leas to complete sting failure, causing a break in the string that can also lead to harm. What needs to be done is to wind the strings just right. The will produce a guitar with all of the proper tone and sustain. What follows is the proper way to string your guitar.

You should begin by removing all of the strings from the package and place them in order of the thickest to thinnest string. When you purchase your strings, make sure to get strings of the same gauge. Switching gauges may require that you adjust the truss rod in order to return to proper intonation. You should now take your guitar, remove the old strings, and turn the tuning pegs until the hole is pointing in the same direction as the neck of the guitar.

Now take the thickest string, and thread the string through the bridge. Pull the string trough the tuning peg until it is taut. Pull the string back out, loosening it, by about three inches. Now turn the peg while holding on to the loose end of the string, making sure it is held tightly and winds without any slack. Once tightened against the fret board, you can let go of the string and continue to tighten until the string is generally taut. You should ensure that the string is winding downward without it flipping itself. The goal is to get around three full turns per string

This process is now repeated with the other string, from the thickest to the thinnest. Reduce the slack a little each time, but make sure that the strings are tight against the tuning pegs. After all of the strings have been tied to the guitar, the guitar should be tuned. This process requires a tuning fork or tuning device. Taking the fork or device, turn the first string to match the sample note. Once the two are in sync with each other, repeat the process for all of the other strings. Once your guitar is in tune, you should let your guitar sit over night. When you pick it up the next day, it will require tuning again, as the strings have began resting against the force of being taut. After the second or third tuning, the strings should have stabilized, and not the guitar will only lose tuning to expansions and compressions of the guitar's body and neck.

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Originally posted 2009-02-24 05:26:26. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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As you continue to gain experience playing and tuning the hammered dulcimer, you will likely discover that there are different ways to tune the instrument, each leading to a different level of accuracy. For example, if you are simply looking to enjoy a jam session, then you want a good enough tuning level that you are not embarrassing yourself or bothering anyone that you are playing with and this should only take 20 to 30 minutes to achieve. On the other hand, if you are simply learning to play, or playing in the comfort of your own home, you can simply tune your hammered dulcimer to taste, which can take a mere 10 minutes to accomplish when done correctly. If you are performing for people or recording your play on the other hand, the accuracy level must be much higher, and this may take an hour or more for you to accomplish depending on your aptitude for tuning such instruments.

The first thing that you need to do is to ensure that you have the right tools for this process. The best way to learn how to do something is to learn as accurately as you possibly can, and then you can ratchet things down from there to meet the circumstances of your needs. The following instructions are designed to help you with both quick and basic tuning, and optimal tuning as well.

The following tools are going to be necessary in order for you to tune your instrument accurately:

- An electronic tuner as well as an alligator clip cord that can be plugged in.

- A tuning lever.

- A bridge bumper and a striker, as required.

- A leather pad, for use with the bridge bumper.

The electronic tuner and cord is the handiest available device for someone who owns and plays a hammered dulcimer. This is an essential tool and can be purchased for less than $30 dollars in most cases. The plug-in alligator clip cord is a cord that plugs into the tuner and then clips on to a tuning pin or hitch pin on the instrument, allowing the tuner to pick the vibrations up from the cord, ignoring any other noise that may get in the way. You can buy something like this for less than $20 dollars and it really does come in handy when tuning your hammered dulcimer.

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Originally posted 2009-02-25 05:49:32. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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